projects:crokinole_board:work_logs:work_log_4
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projects:crokinole_board:work_logs:work_log_4 [2019/07/08 11:46] – [What I want to accomplish next time] tjhowse | projects:crokinole_board:work_logs:work_log_4 [2022/01/23 00:23] (current) – tjhowse | ||
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====== What I want to accomplish ====== | ====== What I want to accomplish ====== | ||
- | * Cut out the main board. | + | * Determine how to mark the lines on the board. |
====== What I've done ====== | ====== What I've done ====== | ||
- | === Aaarrgh! Scary! | + | === Experiments |
+ | Other people have used V-shaped router bits to gouge the circles and lines into the board, then filled them with paint. I did a few experiments with that technique and found it hard to get reliable results. If it goes wrong the entire top board is a write-off, so I was very nervous. If the pivot point moves by a tiny amount the circle won't meet up at the end of the sweep, and that would be unfixable. The specification calls for the lines to be between 1/16" and 1/8". It didn't take much slop in the system for the depth and cleanliness of the cut to be significantly affected. | ||
- | I worried for a long time about this, and did lots of test cuts and preparation. It was the only nice piece of plywood for a reasonable price I could fit in my car. If I ruined it I'd have to spend more time and money getting a new bit. Stakes were high. My woodshopping table had a bend in it, so I belted it with a hammer for a bit until it was flattish, I then laid some particle board offcuts over it as as buffer. | + | {{: |
- | === Cut === | + | I attached a bolt to the side of a router dremel attachment, thinking the smaller tool would give me more control, but I didn't have good success here either. Though I got nice clean grooves cut in scrap wood when freehanding, |
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- | Marvellous! Nice sharp edges, no wonky bits. Two minor burn marks where I had to stop and change arm positions, but they will sand out easily. I exposed three minor voids in the edge as I was cutting. I haven' | + | Instead I decided to go with a black permanent marker. I can easily |
- | I gave the circle a light sand with some 180 grit sandpaper and a cork sanding block. I could feel no irregularities in the surface at all. It was all very nicely smooth. I went over it again with some 240 grit to remove the marks from the 180 grit. I also sanded around the edge, being very careful not to create any flat spots. Some parts had some fuzzy burrs leftover from the routing, but they fell away with light sanding. | + | {{: |
+ | The marker | ||
- | I came back to my workshop a few hours later to put another coat of varnish | + | I had gone through five varnish -> light sand cycles |
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+ | The ink did not streak or bleed during or after the varnishing! Great success! | ||
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+ | After that coat of varnish had dried I gave it a light sand in preparation for another coat. I think I sanded a bit too hard because I broke through the previous layer of varnish and erased some of my lines, though many were unaffected. | ||
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+ | These photos show two coats of varnish atop the ink. | ||
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+ | I think my solution to this will be ensuring my varnish sandings are sufficiently gentle, and perhaps re-marking lines if they start to fade during the subsequent varnish layers. Overall I think this technique looks great and it's likely the one I'll be using on the final board. | ||
====== What I want to accomplish next time ====== | ====== What I want to accomplish next time ====== | ||
- | * Varnish a piece of scrap ply and sand it, then varnish it, then sand it... | + | * Cut out the top, |
- | * Work out how to mark the lines on the board. | + | * Glue the offcuts |
+ | * Drill the hole in the centre of the top, | ||
+ | * Attach the bands to the base. | ||
+ | [<6>] |
projects/crokinole_board/work_logs/work_log_4.1562586393.txt.gz · Last modified: 2019/07/08 11:46 by tjhowse